Auricoste

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Overview

Auricoste is a French watch brand specializing in aviation and naval-inspired timepieces, with a heritage tied to military suppliers for the French army and navy. It produces around 400 watches annually, using Swiss movements in models like chronographs and dive watches. The brand maintains a niche position, emphasizing historical military designs reissued for modern collectors.

History

Founded in 1854 by Emile Thomas in Paris as a marine chronometer specialist, the company was acquired in 1889 by Joseph Auricoste, who renamed it. It won gold medals at the Paris Universal Exhibitions in 1889 and 1900, and supplied over 30,000 compasses and chronometers to French armed forces. Today, it remains family-owned by Claude and Laurent Tordjman, reviving vintage military models.

Product Lines

Product LinePositioningPrice Range
Type 20 Flyback (aviation chronograph)Pilot's chronograph with flyback function$4,000 - $6,000
Type 52 Flyback (military chronograph)Robust flyback chronograph for aviation$4,500 - $6,500
Spirotechnique (naval dive watch)French Navy-issued dive watch reissue$3,500 - $5,000
ScubaMaster (professional diver)Modern dive watch with high ratings$3,000 - $4,500
La Royale Type 32 (vintage-inspired)Classic military-style timepiece$2,500 - $4,000

Manufacturing

Watches are designed in France with a focus on naval aviation heritage. Movements are Swiss-sourced, including ETA 2824-2, Sellita SW200, and Dubois-Dépraz chronograph modules. Assembly details are not specified, but production is limited to several hundred units per year.

Notable Products

  • Type 20 - Flyback chronograph based on 1960s French air force models, equipped with Dubois-Dépraz module.
  • Spirotechnique - Dive watch issued to French Marine Nationale, featuring robust construction for naval use.
  • Type 52 - Military flyback chronograph reviving 1950s designs for pilots.
  • ScubaMaster - Professional dive watch rated highly by owners at 4.7/5.
  • La Royale Type 32 - Vintage military watch with 4.8/5 owner ratings.

Reputation

Auricoste is respected by enthusiasts for its authentic reissues of French military watches and strong historical ties to naval aviation. Owners rate top models 4.7-4.8/5, praising robustness and reliability with Swiss movements. It holds a niche appeal rather than broad recognition, with limited production keeping it exclusive.

Sources (8)
  1. https://www.dialicious.com/en/auricoste
  2. https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/watchmaking-in-france/1004113997-auricoste-over-a-century-and-a-half-of-family.html
  3. https://auricoste.com/en/history/
  4. https://chronopedia.club/Auricoste
  5. https://auricoste.com/en/
  6. https://auricoste.com/en/history-model/
  7. https://www.abpconcept.paris/pages/auricoste-watches
  8. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51lFoV9AN0o